Questions

A perennial garden has plants installed that are hardy to the zone in which they are planted and unlike annual gardens, do not need to be re-planted every year.

Some perennials are considered ‘tender’ perennials and will survive only until a harsh winter kills them off.

When initially installing a perennial garden it’s realistic to expect a 10% loss the first year. Those perennials that survive first winter go on to mature and multiply.

There are thousands of perennials available for our area. Some are Native to our region, while other perennials can adapt to our zone since they are hardy in the same zone in another part of the world.

Seems that many plants from China are also hardy to our area since they’re from same latitude. However, it’s often difficult for the average homeowner to purchase many of the perennials, for they are only available to purchase wholesale. Thus professional landscapers have a wider source of availability.

It’s important to your zone to ensure the survival for plant material. The extreme cold and hot temperatures of a zone often determine whether a genus can make it through a second season. Some plants need to go dormant for the winter and in zones that are temperate (never freeze) they do not survive, but rather rot.

Other plants that need warmer conditions to survive will die in a zone that has a hard freeze, and thus we must choose plants that can handle the weather in our own Zone. That is why native plants thrive in their natural habitat. You can plant any plant of your choosing, but be aware of its zone limits if you want it to return for a second season. When you purchase plants retail or wholesale there will be info as to its zone hardiness. (Ex: Zone 3-8) Zones are determined by the coldest extreme in any zone.

Perennial gardens are no more difficult to maintain than annual gardens. Both have their place in the landscape. Advantage of annuals is their length of bloom time, however they are lost at first frost of winter and must be re-planted the following year.

Perennials are much hardier and can withstand a frost, however, they often require some effort during the season. Deadheading will promote longer bloom time with both annuals and perennials.

Perennials will need to be fertilized about every 6 weeks to promote root growth and a stronger bloom. Weeding of the garden is often necessary until the perennials are established.

Many perennial gardens will adapt to water provided by ‘Mother Nature’ (though watering young gardens or gardens in distress often a benefit to maintaining healthy plants).

Mulching the beds will protect them from summer heat and help retain moisture around plant while protecting the crown in winter (as mulch decomposes and provides nutrients it is necessary to replace the mulch).

Maintaining perennials gardens is like housecleaning, for a clean garden is a healthier environment for them to live in.

When planning a garden the most important part to me is Style.

In the planning stages of the garden, I work with the homeowner to find out what garden image they want the garden to portray when mature. What will a person see as they view it? Will it be formal and manicured, wild and natural, eclectic cottage style ….?

When I design a garden I prefer to blend all shades of color just as nature intended. However, some gardens lend themselves to be monochromatic, while others, because of the location, look better with hot reds, oranges and yellows which exhume vibrant energy.

Gardens in the shade lend themselves towards ‘cool’ blues, whites, and pinks. Color often becomes a personal choice such as painting a house.

Perennial gardens will bloom the first year planted, however, they will bloom more profusely in the second year, and by third year they will have matured enough to provide a real show of color.

The bloom of a perennial is dependent upon nutrients provided in the soil. All plants need phosphates in order to bloom, and if the soil becomes depleted it is necessary to replace the nutrients in order for the perennials to continue blooming in the garden.

Perennials have a way of maturing and thus multiplying either thru seedlings or off shoots from the original plant. After 3-4 years the bed can become crowded and require the perennials to be divided, thus allowing perennials to have adequate water and nutrients.

When designing a garden I take into account the light conditions of the site. Will the garden have full sun more than 6 hours per day, part shade 4-6 hours, or shade less than 4 hours per day. This will greatly effect choice of plant material.

Soil conditions will alter choice of plant material ..well drained areas or moist and damp ..humus or clay?? Style of home or area? How much maintenance time will be provided??

Guarantee on plants can only cover trees and shrubs (if provided proper watering and care). It is not possible to guarantee perennials because of too many variables, such as the harshness of winter or the water conditions throughout a season.

Yes, both the irises and hemerocallis need fertilizing. They need a balanced fertilizer (11-11-11) or super phosphate (blossom booster… middle number around 30) once a year applied in spring – early April. Every plant that blooms needs to have the phosphates replenished whenever soil becomes depleted.

It’s safe to use Treflan or Preen, but only effective in stopping weed germination (won’t stop weeds from growing that have already sprouted) for the year it’s applied. Weeds already sprouted in the asparagus bed will have to be dug out, because if you spray you’ll also kill the asparagus at the root.

Grubex is pretty strong. I prefer Scotts® Turf Builder® With SummerGuard applied in early June to kill the grubs in the lawn before they hatch.

I also use a systemic fertilizer and insecticide combo that feeds and protects my roses. (sprinkle around plants every 6wks) I use the Bayer brand, and I haven’t had any beetles or leaf damage from insects or bugs.

If I see active beetles on plants (roses and flowers) I spray the bugs and the flower directly with Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer.

Preen works by killing seeds, so it is safe for and will not harm existing, mature perennials plants. When applying, try to avoid getting Preen on the plant foliage, which could cause discoloration or damage with long-term contact. (Just brush or wash off any stray granules.)

The ground temperature has to be above 50°, so it’s close enough now (3/28) to start fertilizing. I’m going to start fertilizing our plants this week, too.

Any balanced (e.g. 11-11-11, all numbers matching, usually not over 15) slow release fertilizer will do. Osmocote, Bayer, Scotts & Peters all make good slow release fertilizers. I buy whichever is the best deal.

Yes, the sedum may be divided into sections. Asters lifted will divide naturally. Spring is an excellent time to divide almost all summer & fall blooming perennials.

Lupine is a tender perennial for zones 4b & 5. If you plant the hanging pot from a quart or gallon starter pot, it should bloom. If you plant from seeds, it may possibly bloom if it has enough growing time.